Restaurant Paul Bocuse is a totally satisfying dining experience. More like dining with the man rather than being served in a restaurant, Mr. bocuse knows how to make you feel at home in his dining room. That is because the man himself is almost always on hand during the service hours seeing to the comfort and satisfaction of his guests. Instead of being a hovering owner/manager who constantly breathes over the shoulders of his maitre d's and captains in fear of a food or service misstep, Mr. Bocuse exudes the persona of a master who knows he has perfected his presentation to make sure there are no mistakes. He was on hand to greet me when I arrived for lunch at one o'clock on a Saturday in April. He was still there in the dining room when I left at almost four o'clock. But he was not sitting down chatting with his employees. He was actively saying goodbye to each guest. This after he had made several passes through the dining room during the meal service. His wife also takes an active role. Mrs. Bocuse too made her way through the dining room at least twice to confirm personally that the guests were enjoying the food and surroundings.
Paul Bocuse Restaurant is one reason to get out of Paris and get to Lyon, the second largest city in France and more often referred to as the 'Gourmet Capitol" of the country. Mr. Bocuse actually has 4 restaurants he supervises and has licensed to use his name in the city of Lyon, each named after a compass point, North, South, East and West. But the actual Paul Bocuse Restaurant is located 7 kilometers north of Lyon on the banks of the Soane River in the town of Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or. The building is an imposing converted mansion, brightly painted in red, green and gold. The inside and outside of the restaurant literally gleam. There is a brightness and richness you feel as you enter through the imposing brass handled glass doors.
After a warm welcome by Mr. Bocuse and the Maitre D' I was seated in one of the 3 dining rooms each surrounded by polished wood paneling and featuring a working fireplace that is also used for cooking spit-roasted items such as Bresse poultry, ducks and lamb. Even the details of the table setting are plush and feature many items with the Paul Bocuse name including the butter dish, the napkin ring and service plates. As if the presence of The Master was not enough to let you know in whose house you were dining there is a larger-than-life image of Mr. Bocuse at the entryway.
The food, service and decor all work together to create a totally harmonious experience. The menu has many classic French dishes. There are 3 prix-fix menus as well as ala carte selections. I chose the 120 Euro menu. To start an amuse-bouche arrived. This was a small cup of cream of fresh pea broth blended with cream. For the appetizer I ordered Risotto of Langoustines. You can see photos of these dishes on the next page. The Risotto was rich and delicious. so much so that each bite was a separate moment to be thoroughly enjoyed. The risotto was presented topped with at least a dozen langoustine (crayfish) tails. Surrounding the Risotto was a sauce rather like a lobster bisque only made from the langoustines. It tasted heavenly. As the main course I chose a rack of lamb. The lamb was presented and carved into individual chops at my table. The "Gratin Dauphinoise" a traditional potato casserole was served to accompany the lamb along with its own fork to prevent mixing of flavors. Accompanied with a bouquet of the freshest seasonal vegetables and finished with a demi-glaze in the center of the plate I was well on my way to gastronomic paradise.
Copyright Marc R. Kauffman 2008 - 2011. All rights reserved.
