The Top of The List. (Posted 4/6/07)(Revised 12/09) Some people collect stamps. Some spend their money on a boat or golf. My hobby is restaurants, the exploration, indulgence and experience of some of the best. In Paris I have eaten at most of the Michelin 2 and 3 star restaurants. Here is one for a top of the line experience (and price to match).
My favorite Michelin star restaurant in Paris is Taillevent. Perfectly luxurious are the two words that sum up the Taillevent experience. Though owner Jean-Claude Vrinat has regretfully passed on his daughter carries on the torch. From the moment I was ushered into my taxi by the doorman I felt like I was a guest in a friend's home, but a friend who knows how to cook! Monsieur Vrinat's spirit is at the restaurant every night to supervise each detail. He is a master at crafting the delicate ballet of service that takes place as the kitchen creates some of the most flavorful classic dishes that are the hallmark of Taillevent.
The menu is actually fairly simple. Some of the 9 starters include such treats as artichoke and red pepper sauté with crayfish gnocchi, Chalosse duck foie gras, ham from the Sault region in risotto with golden fried frog legs, scallops with artichokes and Lucques olives, langoustine raviolis in lobster sauce with basil and the special lobster sausage in an emulsion of fennel and star anis. Six fish dishes are available to choose from including sole, filet of St. Pierre with basil in bouillabaisse sauce, salmon from Scotland sauteed and topped with grey shallots and salsify, Sea bass with pressed lemon and olive oil, scallops in a citron sauce with braised endives and finally a Breton lobster cooked in curry with puree of celery root. There are usually 7 meat dishes with a choice of such delicacies as whole duck liver cooked in sweet wine (Banyuls), veal for 2, roasted lamb from the Pyrenees, duck served for 2 people and the trademark baby piglet with spice and lentils from the original recipe of Guillaume Tirel (Taillevent) dating back to 1630.
About 10 desserts are available as well as a cheese course. Let's just say there is no such thing as a "bad dessert" at Taillevent. Also available are one or two tasting menus. These are multi-course scenarios that show off the best of the chef's talents. They must be ordered by the entire table.
But the most fun (for me) is the wine list. Taillevent has probably the most extensive (and certainly the best priced) wine selections of any Michelin star restaurant in Paris. It helps that Monsieur Vrinat is an outstanding sommelier and also presides over the wine shop Caves du Taillevent.
As I said at the beginning this is the top of the top and the price is up there also. However it is better value for the money than any other 3 star restaurant in Paris. Complete dinner for 2 with good wines will run about $500.00 but remember this includes tax and tip!But a comparative bargain is the prix-fix lunch at 80 Euros per person (about $145.00), 95 with accompanying wines. There are 3 courses including such specialties as Turtle Soup, sliced roast leg of lamb or duck breast, a cheese course and dessert. Reservations are absolutely imperative at dinner. Usually the restaurant is booked at least 6 to 8 weeks in advance. As with most great restaurants in Paris Taillevent in closed Saturday and Sunday. Taillevent, 15, rue Lamennais, Paris 75008. Tel: 01 44-95-15-01 Fax: 01 42-25-95-18. www.taillevent.com
Copyright Marc R. Kauffman 2008 - 2011. All rights reserved.
