Chez What! In Paris there are a lot of restaurants called "Chez" this or "Chez" that. The word chez in French means "house of". However in a more literary sense it means "welcome to my house". This is certainly the case with Chez Omar in The Marais. The restaurant is located behind le Mairie (city hall) of the 3rd arrondissement on rue de Bretagne, in an area where few tourists ever venture. Rue de Bretagne is lined with enticing cheese, meat and produce shops. Nearby is le Marche des Enfants Rouges (Red Baby Market), the first modernized public market in Paris. This area located between the Pompidou Center and the Picasso Museum is also the wholesale leather goods and costume jewelry district.
I have been a regular at Chez Omar for the past 12 years. At first I wanted to keep the restaurant a secret so I could get a table whenever I came to town but in the past couple years Chez Omar has definitely been discovered. Now there is a line out the door every night. It is best to arrive before 8:30 since they do not take reservations. By 9:00 there could be a wait of one hour or more!
Chez Omar is the place where couscous connoisseurs convene. What is couscous? Lightly steamed grain (actually semolina, what most pasta is made from) from North Africa served on a large platter with a bowl of sauteed vegetables including carrots, zucchini, tomatoes, onions, turnips, celery, and garbanzo beans in a rich tomato base broth. You can add platters of meats, roast chicken, barbecued lamb or enjoy the vegetarian version for a totally satisfying mid-winter dinner.
If couscous is not your cup of tea choose from a full selection of roasted meats, chicken or fish accompanied by some of the best french fried potatoes in Paris! All this is prepared in a kitchen that measures 6 feet by 10 feet, truly amazing!
Desserts are good and filling. Assorted Moroccan pastries or a rich chocolate leigeois (like a sundae but better) are good choices. Finish with a soothing glass of warm mint tea then sit back and relax before you venture out into the Paris night. The wine list is adequate but stick with less expensive bottled wines and avoid the acidic house wines served in small pitchers.
The decor reminds me of a 1920's brasserie. A huge dark wood zinc topped bar dominates the right side of the dining room.The spicy, smoky North African aromas waft out the door. Omar himself is usually on hand to greet you. He speaks good English and is Mr. Hospitality personified. After my first visit he remembered me and the fact I am in the wine business. Each time I come in he stops by my table with a new wine for me to sample and we talk about some new offering on his wine list.
Chez Omar boasts lots of regulars. On one visit I saw Roman Polanski. Mel Gibson and Harrison Ford have also enjoyed the ambiance and couscous. Fashion models and designers have chosen Chez Omar as a "hot spot".
A few words of caution. Omar does not take credit cards, cash only. Prices are fairly reasonable so you won't break the bank eating here. A typical couscous with a bottle of wine will run about $60.00 for 2 people and that includes tax and tip.There is a non-smoking section and all restaurants in France will go non smoking shortly.
So try Chez Omar for couscous and people watching. When you go give Omar my regards and save me a place in line.
Chez Omar 47 rue de Bretagne 75003 Paris Tel: 01 42 72 36 26 Metro: Arts et Metiers or Republique
Tour D'Argent - a big splurge. Even though it no longer boasts 3 Michelin stars Restaurant Tour D'Argent is still a landmark restaurant in Paris. Having heard horror stories about Americans being given tables by the kitchen door I approached the experience with some trepidation. I must say overall the experience was enjoyable. Tour D' Argent, it is said, was the first place in Paris to introduce the fork way back in the 1600's. Downstairs is a restaurant museum with memorabilia from many food service venues of the past including the ocean liner Normandy. Upon arrival most guests are seated in "the museum" to enjoy a cocktail or glass of wine. After drinks you take the elevator to the upstairs dining-room overlooking the Seine. If you are lucky (as I was) you may get a table in front of the windows. The passing bateau mouches (river tour boats) light up the river as they pass. The view is breathtaking. It helps to reserve at least 6 to 8 weeks in advance as I did and then your odds of getting a window table may be better. Unfortunately the food did not quite measure up to the glorious surroundings. For starters we ordered the Feuillete de Homard with champignons, a combination of lobster and mushrooms in a cream sauce within a pastry cover. The dish was over-salted. Otherwise it would have been very good. Duck is the specialty of the house so we ordered the traditional Caneton Tour D'Argent. Now you must realize this restaurant has been serving their special duck preparation since 1865. They keep count of the number of each duck they serve. (Isn't that daffy?) When you order this duck preparation you will receive a postcard with your duck's number on it. We had duck number 925,414. I'll bet the duck population of France is lining up right now to fight for the honor of being duck number one million served at Tour D'Argent. The duck presentation was in two parts. First the breast was served with a sauce prepared from crushed duck bones and cream with red wine. It was tasty but a bit heavy. Then the leg and thigh were grilled and served as a second course. However the plate included a salad of lettuce as a garnish and a salad fork already placed on the plate. Since salad is usually a final course this service might leave you feeling like they were trying to rush you out and turn the table, a very unusual practice for an upscale restaurant such as this. The wine list is very good. We had a half bottle of 1990 Puligny Montrachet Clavaillon by Le Flaive and a bottle of 1975 Chateau Talbot. All wines on the list are at least 8 years old. All newer vintages are listed as "aging in our cellars" to give you a promise of things to come. For dessert we split one Flambee de Peches, peach flambee with vanilla ice cream and that was probably the best part of the meal, other than the wine. The owner, Claude Terrail, (now deceased) was on hand and greeted us warmly. He stopped by our table and personally thanked us as we left. He was obviously trying to get back a star! Claude will be remembered as one of the best restaurateurs in spite of any shortcomings we may have encountered on this visit. I especially like his philosophy printed on the back of the check, "Il n'est rien plus serieux que le plaisir" (Nothing is more important than having a good time). The setting is gorgeous. I recommend the experience but lunch may be a better value than dinner. Our dinner for 2 with wines came to about $540.00. There is a prix fix lunch menu for $75.00 plus wine (that was advertised on a tacky table tent on our table). My suggestion would be go for lunch and skip the duck. Tour D'Argent is certainly one of the most beautiful and romantic restaurants in Paris. La Tour d'Argent, 15-17 quai de la Tournelle, Paris 75005, 01 43-54-23-31, Fax 01-44=07-12-04, www.latourdargent.com.
Copyright Marc R. Kauffman 2008 - 2011. All rights reserved.
